Icebergs tower all around you, sheer mountain faces ascend from the sea to the heavens, rock seams splinter and bend while whales abound in the Arctic seas, small trees grow slowly on the tundra visited only by solitary Arctic fox and hare. This is Svalbard, land of the bear, preserver of the seeds. This is Greenland, largest island in the world, a vast ice cap of outrageous scenery and history. This is the Arctic, where ice sculptures form and fade, where fantastical and gentle memories are formed and remain.